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Churnet Valley Vets Factsheets


Which pet to choose?
Choosing a Dog
Choosing a Cat
Choosing a Rabbit
What about a Small Furry?
Small Furry Facts
Caring for your rabbit
Guinea pigs as pets

Neutering your pets
Neutering (Spaying / Castration)
Spay (Ovario-hysterectomy)
Castration (orchiectomy)
Neutering Rabbits


Pets (Pet Travel Scheme)
Pets Passport
Pet Insurance
Dental care for dogs and cats
Micro chipping

 

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Choosing a Dog


colliepupsmall.jpg (35500 bytes)
There are many breeds of dog that offer a selection of behavioral and personality traits. However, there are certain requirements that apply to all types of dog and careful consideration of these points can help decide if a dog, or a breed, suits you best and matches your lifestyle.


Time & Commitment
Dogs are social animals that need lots of attention especially to avoid behavioral problems and also require training, exercise and grooming. If you expect that you will be leaving a dog on its own for more than four hours on a regular basis then you may need to reconsider your choice of pet.


Space and Exercise
The size of your house and garden will need to be considered, as will your ability to provide your dog with exercise. Different breeds of dog have different exercise requirements - some are content with a short walk every day but others need several hours a day. greyhoundpups1.jpg (19101 bytes)


Expense
There are one off and ongoing expenses to bear in mind. These include:

  • The initial cost of your puppy/adult dog
  • Daily costs of feeding (especially the larger breeds)
  • Budget for veterinary fees / insurance premium costs
  • Kenneling / care costs during holidays
  • Grooming fees for some breeds
 

Experience
Have you kept a dog before?  There are easier breeds and there are more demanding breeds to care for.

Reasons for Having a Dog
Are you hoping for a protective, working or companion dog?

 
Making that Choice
There are rough guides to each breed available from books, websites or by visiting pet shows. Our veterinary surgeries will be able to offer advice and guidance.

Points to remember:

  • Purebred vs. crossbred?
    It is possible to look at information on a particular breed and have an idea of what to expect - with crossbreeds this is more difficult to judge however it is fair to say some diseases are strongly linked to some purebreds.
  • Size / image issues
    Big dogs generally need more space, possibly more exercise, more food and often have a shorter life expectancy than many smaller breeds. Each breed has its own image - somebody walking a Chihuahua sends a different message to someone out walking with a Mastiff.
  • Male or female?
    Male dogs tend to be larger than their female partners and are more prone to being competitive with other dogs, bitches will have a season twice a year unless spayed. These all bring their own set of issues. charlieball.jpg (70655 bytes)
  • Coat
    Long hair or short hair? Long coated breeds such as Afghans need a lot of grooming attention but other shorter haired breeds may shed hair at every step. Some dogs will need regular clipping - often at a professional grooming parlor to maintain a healthy and attractive coat.
  • Age
    Puppies are fun, haven't learnt any bad habits yet (?) and you get to watch them grow up but come lacking toilet training and with some playful but possibly destructive behavior (like chewing your favorite shoes). Older dogs come with a little more training (hopefully) and you avoid the messy years but you should be cautious about the reasons why it now requires a home.
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Choosing a Cat



Cats come in a selection of shapes and styles - long haired, short haired, striped or pointed. They all have a special appeal either because they are independent and aloof or because they are cuddly and sociable. kittens2 copy.jpg (19978 bytes)

Care points for cats include consideration for exercise - access to the outside, need for company and fees such as vets bills, insurance premiums and cattery charges. Whilst the food bills for a cat may be less than a dog the cost of cat litter (if used) needs to be considered.

Moggies and Pedigree cats
There are approximately 40 different breeds of cat with about 500 varieties. The breeds come in four groups:
Longhair
Shorthair
Siamese
Foreign shorthair

Each breed has its own general characteristics such as the placid, sociable Persian or the noisy, busy Siamese. Moggies come in all shapes, colours and coat types. Sometimes they are more resistant to diseases thus having a slightly longer life expectancy.

Making That Choice
Long hair or short hair?
A commitment to daily grooming is needed from the owners of a long haired cat to prevent matting of its coat and the development of fur balls. Short haired cats can still get fur balls and shed hair so they will also need some grooming. coll2.jpg (110764 bytes)

Male or female?
Male cats (toms) are generally larger than their female partners and there is usually a marked difference in behavior between the toms and female cats (queens).

Fighting is a frequent behavior seen in tom cats as they fight over territory and queens. This often results in war wounds and infections. Many toms are castrated for this reason. Castration is also part of responsible pet ownership as un-neutered roaming toms will sire many litters of kitten, many which become strays.

Un-neutered queens will come into season regularly and give birth to several litters a year if allowed to do so. Again this often results in many unwanted kittens. You should have her spayed unless she is of show standard and you wish to breed from her
.

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Choosing a Rabbit


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Rabbits come in all shapes and sizes i.e. small, medium or large, a coat of one colour or several, erect ears or droopy etc. Many people now keep their pet rabbit indoors as they can make ideal house pets. They can be toilet trained and a few modifications will make your home safe. However, they are more traditionally kept outside under shelter in the winter months and in the garden during the summer months.

 

Making that Choice

Time & Commitment
Rabbits need attention every day. The benefits of this are in terms of effects on their behavior and good health. The more a rabbit is handled and in contact with humans the friendlier they become. It is also important to check over pet rabbits regularly for things like overgrown teeth, overgrown toenails and messy bottoms. The hutch or pen will need cleaning weekly and bedding replaced or topped up daily. House rabbits need attention to their pen daily. Rabbits should be groomed weekly, or more frequently for the long haired varieties.

Space & Exercise
Outdoor rabbits need accommodation to protect them from harsh weather and also to provide them with space for a sleeping area, food area and toileting area. They should have access to grass, preferably with a run that allows them to stand up on their hind legs and to bounce around. If the weather is good and the garden is secure from escape check that the rabbit is safe from cats and dogs and let them have a run around in the garden - provided you are present to keep an eye on them. Indoor rabbits need a pen that is large enough to allow them to lie down stretched out. If the rabbit is likely to spend a significant period of time shut in then the pen should be larger. Indoor rabbits should also have access to the garden in summer.

Expense
Pet rabbits are usually available at a fair price - but show standard purebreds will be more expensive. Other costs of the rabbits include:

  • Housing (hutch and run) and bedding
  • Food - pellets and fresh
  • Insurance
  • Neutering
  • Vaccination
  • Vet bills

Vaccinations
There are two vaccinations available to protect your pet. There is a vaccine available to protect against myxomatosis infection and another available to protect against a viral diarrhea disease.

Company
Rabbits do like company, in the wild they would live in a large group. Acceptance of a mate, male or female, is best achieved when the rabbits are still young. Plenty of human contact will provide your rabbit with stimulation and company.

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What about a Small Furry?


    If you don't have the time to care for a cat or dog but still want a pet for yourself or your children you might consider one of the following:

  • Guinea Pigs
    What's involved:  Guinea pigs are clever and socialable pets.  They don't need a high space because they don't jump or climb but they do need a lot of floorspace.  They need a temperature between 18-26 degrees C and so in winter they should be housed indoors.   Guinea pigs should be fed twice daily with a high fibrous diet and vitamin C (this is why guinea pig food is different to rabbit food - guinea pigs must have added vitamin C in their food).  Guinea pigs love to have companions - littermates or single sex guineas (not rabbits).

  • Hamsters
    What's involved:  Hamsters are very clever and adventurous - they are determined escape artists.  They must live in a wire cage (they will gnaw their way out of a wood or plastic cage).  Hamsters need lots of toys and frequent handling to keep them tame and socialised.  They are naturally nocturnal so play with them in the evening.  Hamsters are omnivorous, they hoard food and need chewing material to keep their teeth short.  Some species of hamsters like to live along (eg Syrian) and some prefer a companion (dwarf hamsters).

  • Gerbils
    What's involved: Gerbils are friendly and inquisitive.  The ideal gerbil house is a gerbilarium, made of glass with a lid containing ventilation holes but secure to prevent escapes.   Gerbils eat seeds, grains, roots and insects in the wild.  They are very active and in the wild live in tunnels in the desert sand.  They need very little water but their supply should be fresh.  They are not smelly pets as they are adapted to preserve water and their faeces are dry.  They like a thick layer of sawdust, or something similar, to tunnel in and when in a glass aquarium or the like they can be very entertaining to watch.  They can be handled if not taken by surprise.

  • Rats
    What's involved: Rats are very intelligent and agile.  They should be housed indoors with a large wire cage.  The cage should be high enough to allow them two levels.  Rats are omnivores and need protein.  They should not be fed human food or nuts.  They need feeding once a day and need cleaning out regularly as they hoard food.  Rats are nocturnal and so will be playful in the evening.  They enjoy being handled if it is done properly.   They are very sociable creatures and so are best kept with another rat of the same sex, preferably a litter mate as they can fight if introduced to a new rat.

  • Chinchillas
    What's involved: Chinchillas are very bright, inquisitive and good climbers.  They need a large cage with a climbing area, a sleeping box and a daily fresh sand bath.  They are indoor pets and need a constant temperature above 28 degrees C.  Chinchillas are herbivores, needing a lot of fibre.  This helps grind down their constantly growing teeth.  They are very intelligent pets and so need lots of toys for stimulation.  They are sociable and like to be with a single sex group.

  • Ferrets
    What's involved: Ferrets are very intelligent and inquisitive pets.  They can live in wire cages with several levels so they have lots of space.  They can also live freely in the house and use a litter tray.  Ferrets are omnivores and need high levels of meat protein and fat.  They need to be fed little and often throughout the day.  They are very playful and play happily with humans with tunnels and balls.

Smally Furry Facts

Rabbits

Guinea pigs

Hamsters Gerbils
Latin name Oryctolagus
Cuniculus
Cavia Porcellus Mesocricetus
Auratus
Meriones
Unguiculatus
Female Doe Sow Sow Sow
Male Buck Boar Boar Boar
Young Kittens Piglets Pups Pups
Life span 5-10 yrs 5-8 yrs 1-3 yrs 3-5 yrs
Litter size 4-12 kittens 1-6 piglets 3-12 pups 3-10 pups
Birth wt 30-80g 70-100g 2-3g 1-3g
Eyes open 10 days at birth 12-14 days 17 days
Gestation
period
30-33 days 59-72 days 15-18 days 24-26 days
Average wt Male 1-5kg
female 1-8kg
Male and female
750-1000g
Male 85-130g
Female 95-150g
Male 60g
Female 50g
Sexual
maturity
16-24 wks 45-70 days Male 6-8 wks
Female 4 wks
Male and female
10-12 wks
Weaning
age
4-7wks 3 wks 3 wks 21-24 days
Diet Herbivores Herbivores Omnivores Omnivores

 

Rats Chinchillas Ferrets
Latin name Rattus Norvegicus Chinchilla Lanigera Mustela Putorius Furo
Female Doe Doe Jill
Male Buck Buck Hob
Young Pups Kits Kits
Life span 2-4 yrs 10-20 yrs 5-11 yrs
Litter size 6-16 pups 1-6 kits 5-13 kits
Birth wt 5-7g 30-40g 8-10g
Eyes open 10-16 days at birth From 4 weeks
Gestation
period
20-22 days 111-113 days 38-44 days
Average wt Male and female
400-800g
Male 400-500g
Female 400-600g
Male 700-2000g
Female 600-900g
Sexual
maturity
Male and female
6-10 wks
4-12 mths
(average 8mths)
Male 5-9 mths
Female - spring after birth
Weaning
age
3-4 wks 8-10 wks 6-8 wks
Diet Omnivores Herbivores Carnivorous


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Caring for your rabbit


In the wild rabbits eat a range of grasses, weeks, leaves, shoots and twigs as well as the bark of trees, shrubs and bushes.  Rabbits are herbivores and their digestive system has evolved to be extremely efficient with the ability to eliminate indigestible fibre rapidly and ferment those fibres that are digestible.  Rabbits need a balanced diet with high levels of fibre to keep them healthy. 

As foragers rabbits must be fed twice a day every day. The traditional rabbit mix sold in pet shops was originally designed to fatten rabbits up for the pot post war - some contain chocolate drops and inappropriate components, leading to obesity and overgrown teeth.  Supreme Russel Rabbit food is designed to fulfil all of the dietary requirements of a pet rabbit.  This can be bought in the surgery. 

Rabbit with normal incisors
It is important the right diet is offered to pet rabbits so as to keep the teeth working hard and help prevent them from overgrowing and becoming a problem. If they do become overlong they curl into the gums and teeth causing big problems with eating. Routine examination of pet rabbits should be carried out by the owner (an adult not a child). If the teeth appear to be causing a problem it is important your take the rabbit for a veterinary health check.

Faeces
Because rabbits eat food high in cellulose (plant fibre), like grass and hay, some of the food they eat has to pass through the digestive system twice. Some of the faeces passed overnight are very soft and pale in colour and contain high amounts of this fibre. These are called caecophytes and are eaten by the rabbit to go through the digestive process a second time. This makes it easier to get the nutrients out of the tough fibre.

Fly strike
Any rabbit left to sit in damp and dirty surroundings is prone to disease which is why it is important to clean hutches and pens regularly. This is especially important in the summer when flies seek places to lay eggs. It is important to clean rabbits living spaces daily in the summer and to check the rabbit all over at the end of the each day. Fly eggs are very small, white and oval and they stick very strongly to the animal's hair. If these eggs are not removed and are allowed to hatch out (often overnight) they produce maggots. These maggots rapidly cause unbelievable injuries and pain to the animal. During the warmer months rabbits should be checked over by the owner once a day.

Myxomatosis
this is a disease transmitted by fleas, or from contract with other infected rabbits.   Symptoms are usually swollen eyelids and thick discharge from the eyes and nose.   The rabbit will become very subdued and stop eating.  This condition is usually fatal.  Vaccination each year can prevent this disease.

Snuffles/pasteurella
This is a bacterial condition and can be related to stress.  The rabbit will develop coldlike symptoms with a runny nose, breathing difficulties and discharge from the eyes.   Snuffles can lead to more sericous problems such as pneumonia, head tilt and tooth rot abscesses.  The hutch should be kept well ventilated and at a constant temperature, removing wet bedding to reduce stress.

 


 

Guinea pigs as pets


Guinea pigs are relatively trouble free and make very good pets for children. Long haired guinea pigs do need grooming and this should be taken into account when choosing your guinea pig.

Guinea pigs can live for up to 7 years and so this needs to be a consideration when you decide to buy one for your children – you may be left caring for them long after the kids have left home! Always buy from a reputable pet shop or breeder and pick the one that looks healthy, is bright and friendly. The guinea pig should be at least six weeks old.

What do guinea pigs need?

  • Companionship - to be with other guinea pigs. Guinea pigs are sociable creatures and prefer to be with the company of other guinea pigs – the same sex of course! (unless you are prepared to get them neutered).The widespread practice of keeping guinea pigs and rabbits together is not recommended.
  • Feeding twice a day, with a mixture of meadow hay, green stuff, pellets, washed fruit and vegetables.
  • A constant supply of fresh, clean drinking water in a drip feed bottle with a metal spout.
  • Guinea pigs can be kept as indoor pets but care must be taken as they can chew electric cables, furniture etc. Ideally your guinea pig should be kept outside in a large hutch with an outside run. A large weatherproof home kept off the ground, out of direct sunlight and strong winds. It should be moved to an indoor area or porch in cold weather.
  • A separate sleeping area for each animal inside the home.
  • A clean layer of wood chippings on the floor of their home and plenty of soft hay for bedding and burrowing.
  • Daily exercise in a grassy area safe from predators and an indoor run in cold weather.
  • Their home to be cleaned every day and bedding changed weekly.
  • A gnawing block to wear down long teeth.
  • To be brushed every day if they have a long or rough-haired coat.
  • Some quiet time alone or with other guinea pigs every day.
  • To be taken to a vet if they are ill or injured.
  • To be looked after when you are on holiday.

 

Handling
Approach the guinea pig from the front and on its level. Pick it up using both hands, one around the hindquarters,the other around its shoulders (for a young guinea pig) or around its chest (for an adult). Guinea pigs may become upset by too much handling.

Health
Guinea pigs should be checked regularly for overgrown claws and teeth. Both can be trimmed by a vet.

Too much scratching results from skin problems and is often caused by mites or lice. We can provide suitable treatment for these.

Long-haired guinea pigs in particular may suffer from the potentially fatal disease flystrike, caused by flies laying eggs in soiled fur. Make sure the guinea pigs' home is cleaned every day and bedding changed regularly. Groom guinea pigs every day, checking their fur all over for any dirt, especially under the tail.

If a guinea pig develops bald patches on its face, this could indicate the fungal disease ringworm. In this case bring your pet to see the vet as soon as possible.

Guinea pigs can suffer from vitamin C deficiency, which causes weight loss, general weakness and swollen joints. Ask us for advice on how to provide your guinea pigs with an adequate supply of this vitamin.

If you have any concerns about your guinea pigs' health, ask us for advice.

Cavy speak

COOING

A soft sound to reassure other guinea pigs all is well or to show enjoyment when being stroked by a human

SQUEAK

A high pitched, piercing noise can be a sign of fright or pain, or anticipation - for example at feed time

CHATTERING TEETH

Stay away! This is a warning to other guinea pigs to keep their distance

GURGLING


A sound of contentment and happiness

 

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Neutering (Spaying / Castration)


A common misconception is that neutering will cure behavioral problems in dogs. Unfortunately this is not the case. Only correct behavioral training will modify a dog’s behaviour.

 


 

Spay (Ovario-hysterectomy)


Spaying, or neutering, involves the removal of the ovaries and the uterus (Ovario-hysterectomy). Surgery can be performed from 5½ months of age in both cats and dogs. We do not spay bitches that are in season as surgery is more risky at that time and, if surgery has been delayed to after the first season, then the optimum time to spay is 3 months after the finish of the season.


Frequently asked questions
  1. 'Will it make my pet fat and lazy?' No. Obesity is due to excessive calorie intake. Weight can be controlled with proper feeding and exercise.
  2. 'Shouldn't my pet have a litter first?' No. There is no advantage in allowing your pet to have a litter and there are potential health problems associated with pregnancy and labor.

Reasons for ...

  1. There will be no more seasons (no mess or inconvenience).
  2. She will be unable to get pregnant - so there will be no unwanted offspring.
  3. The risk of her getting a potentially life-threatening uterine infection (pyometra) is removed. This is common in older cats and 75% of entire (un-neutered) bitches will develop womb problems later in life; the vast majority of these will need neutering. Surgery at this stage carries a much higher risk, as the pet is invariably quite ill.
  4. The chances of her suffering from hormone induced mammary (breast) cancer can be reduced. Neutering early in life reduces the incidence of mammary (breast) cancer; it is the most common form of cancer in the bitch. If neutered early in life the incidence of breast cancer in bitches is reduced by 3- 7 times.

 

Reasons against ...

  1. Weight gain. This is always a worry as this in itself can cause problems. Neutering doesn't make your pet overweight, too much food does! Once your pet has been neutered food requirements will lessen; reducing the daily food allowance by a third will help to prevent excess weight gain. You can monitor your pet’s weight by regular weight checks - the scales at the surgery are free to use.
  2. All general anesthetics involve some risks. The risk is smaller in young, fit animals than in older pets (e.g. those that are ill with a womb infection).

 


 

Castration (orchiectomy)


Castration is the surgical removal of the testicles. The operation may be performed on any male cat from 4½ months onwards. Castration can be done in any male dog from around 6 months onwards.

Reasons for ...

  1. Reduction of the desire to stray or roam.
  2. In cats, castration can reduce: aggressive behavior; territorial marking - spraying urine to mark territory; the strong, offensive odor of cat urine; and territorial fighting (so reducing the risk of Feline Leukemia).
  3. In entire male dogs, some potentially life-threatening medical problems are more likely to occur e.g. hernias, prostate trouble, testicular tumors. Castration reduces or removes the danger.
  4. He will be unable to reproduce - so there will be no unwanted offspring.

Reasons against ...

  1. Weight gain. This is always a worry as this in itself can cause problems. Neutering doesn't make your pet overweight, too much food does! Once your pet has been neutered food requirements will lessen; reducing the daily food allowance by a third will help to prevent excess weight gain. You can monitor your pet’s weight by regular weight checks - the scales at the surgery are free to use.
  2. All general anesthetics involve some risks. The risk is smaller in young, fit animals than in older pets.

 


 

Neutering Rabbits


Incidentally have you ever considered having your rabbit neutered? Neutered rabbits are more social towards one another and relations between owner and rabbit can be improved. More importantly females can suffer from womb cancer; the incidence is in excess of 80% in rabbits over 4 years of age. If you would like more information about neutering your rabbit, please contact the clinic.

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PETS – (Pet Travel Scheme)


pettravelscheme.jpg (15647 bytes)
The Government will now allow some pets to re-enter the UK from certain countries without the need to go through quarantine. This means you may be able to take your pets on holiday! Of course there are strict conditions that must be met first:

  1. Your pet must be at least 3 months old
  2. Your pet must be micro chipped
  3. Your pet must be vaccinated against Rabies
  4. Your pet must pass a blood test to ensure vaccination is working
 
  • Your pet must have a passport from your Vet
  • The microchip must be implanted before the Rabies vaccination and should meet International Standards so international machines can read it.
  • The vaccination can either be a course of one or two injections. Two vaccinations ensures a better chance of the vaccine being effective but one vaccination is usually enough, the choice is with each individual. Statistics show that at the present time with one vaccine the pass level is 95% and with two vaccines the pass level is 100%.
  • A blood sample is needed 21 days after the last vaccine to test if the vaccine has been effective, if your pet fails this test they will not be allowed to travel under the Pet Travel Scheme
  • Your pet cannot be brought back into the UK until 6 months after the blood sample was taken, unless it was resident in the UK, microchipped, vaccinated and blood sampled before the pilot scheme started (28 February 2000).
  • A signed passport is also needed from your veterinary surgeon, who must be an Official Veterinarian.
  • In some countries an extra certificate is needed to meet with their own regulations, this is an export health certificate and DEFRA (Department for the Environment, Farming and Rural Affairs) will be able to inform you if your pet needs one.
  • Pets must also be treated for worms and ticks 24-48hrs before re-entering the UK and have the passport signed by an official veterinary surgeon to confirm that these treatments have been administered.
  • You will also need to sign a declaration that your pet has not been outside the qualifying countries in the six months before entering the UK.
PET TRAVEL SCHEME PRICES @ March 2008:
Micro chip £22.50
Rabies Vaccination x 1 £30.00
Rabies Blood Test £75.00
Pets Passport £35.00
Total £162.50


PETS website: www.defra.gov/animalh/quarantine/pets/index.htm
DEFRA, Export Dept - Telephone for up to date advice on regulations: 01785 231900.

PETS helpline: 0870 241 1710 (Monday – Friday 08:30 – 17:00)

Private business dealing with International Pet Travel – telephone: 01257 795606 & website: www.petsonthemove.co.uk
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Pet Passport



PETS enables pet cats and dogs to enter or re-enter the UK without having to go through the strict six months quarantine. This is providing that the animal has come from a qualifying country and meets all the requirements of the scheme. Qualifying countries are certain countries which are involved in the scheme. A dog or cat may leave the UK, visit one or more of these countries then return to the UK, providing they meet all the conditions of the scheme. If pets have been resident in one or more of these qualifying countries for not less than six months they too may enter the UK.

This list of qualifying countries is frequently being updated. Contact DEFRA, for an updated list of qualifying countries. The conditions of the scheme are to be adhered to precisely. Failure to do so can lead to your pet becoming impounded and forced into six months of quarantine.
Your pet must be:

  • Fitted with a permanent number microchip, of ISO standard (international standards organization)
  • Vaccinated against rabies, using an approved vaccine after the microchip has been planted This has to be carried out in the UK or in one of the qualifying countries.
  • Have a blood sample taken to check that the vaccination has been effective (i.e. has reached the required antibody level). This is normally done a month after vaccination. These blood samples need to be tested at a DEFRA approved laboratory. The cat or dog from abroad will not be allowed into the UK until at least six months from the date of blood sampling, providing a satisfactory blood result is achieved.
  • Have an official PETS certificate certifying that all of the above has been carried out. This certificate has to be completed and signed by a government authorized veterinary surgeon. In the UK this is a vet who has been trained by DEFRA to be a Local Veterinary Inspector (LVI). This certificate will be effective six months after the date of blood sampling.

NB

  • The PETS passport has an expiry date, which is linked to its rabies booster vaccination. It is important that your pet has a rabies booster vaccination before or on the date of passport expiry. Should this be delayed even by one day the process of revaccination and blood sampling will be required. A new PETS passport will be issued every time your pet has a rabies booster vaccination.
  • IMPORTANT The PETS passport is not the only paperwork that is required, as it only allows your pet to enter or re-enter into the UK and not to enter your qualifying country destination. Additional checks and paper work, e.g. health certificate, are required by most qualifying countries. This needs to be completed prior to leaving the UK; contact your LVI to find out what is required for your journey.
  • Before re-entry to the UK your pet needs to be treated against tapeworm and ticks. This must take place 24-48 hours before embarkation into the UK. An official veterinary certificate is required following this treatment. Information on vets who will provide this treatment and necessary paperwork can be found on the 'dogs-away' website.

    Re-entry into the UK
    Before your pet is allowed into the UK your travel company will check at the point of embarkation: its microchip number (this is done using a simple scanner) the official PETS certificate the certificate of treatment against tapeworm and ticks you will also be asked to sign a declaration of residency, declaring that your pet has not been outside of the PETS qualifying countries in the previous six months Providing that all criteria has been met and that all paper work is in order your pet will be allowed into the UK. Failure of any part will be subject to further checks. If there are any doubts about its vaccination and health status, it will not be allowed into the UK, except to go into quarantine. (Visit our own boarding and quarantine kennels on www.chingfordkennels.co.uk) Personal preparation and organization Do this well in advance. Check that all is in order before you go abroad with your pet or if you wish to bring your pet into the UK.

  • Contact your veterinary surgeon before taking your pet abroad. Only certain approved routes and transport companies are involved in the PETS travel scheme; check what is available to you. Your travel company can be contacted for further advice.
  • Think about your pet's comfort for all of the journey/stay. Does your cat or dog become stressed during journeys and/or nervous when in strange places? If so, it may be kinder to seek alternate arrangements for them at home or book them into a boarding establishment, www.chingfordkennels.co.uk Animals will die in hot cars so avoid direct sunshine and traveling in high temperatures. Make frequent stops to allow your dog to relieve itself and for your pet to have a drink. Always make sure your cat or dog is suitably restrained and secure during the entire journey.
  • Check to see if your destination will allow your pet to stay.
  • Enquire about a local veterinary surgeon in case of emergencies during your stay. Your pet may be exposed to diseases which do not normally occur in the UK. In these cases your pet will not have a natural immunity to fight off such diseases and may become very ill. Preventative care is available prior to leaving therefore contact your vet on these matters.
  • If you are going on a day trip with your pet you will need to have it treated against tapeworm and ticks prior to leaving the UK, so that it is treated 24-48 hours prior to embarkation to the UK. This will mean you will need to have your pet treated and have the appropriate certificate before you leave the UK. Your vet will be able to provide you with the relevant certification.
  • Some insurance companies will insure your dog or cat while abroad but this cover needs to be activated prior to your departing the UK. Check your insurance company to check your existing policy.

For more information contact your veterinary surgery, travel company and DEFRA www.defra.gov.uk

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Dental care for dogs and cats



If you didn’t clean your teeth regularly would you expect to suffer from dental problems? Of course you would.

80% of cats and dogs over the age of 7 have significant dental disease.

Bacteria in the mouth form plaque which hardens to form tartar if not cleaned off. This harbours more bacteria, which cause a bad smell, receding gums and eventually rotten teeth.

Not only is dental disease painful, it also can also lead to lots of other health problems as a result of bacteria from teeth entering the blood stream. These include abscesses, kidney disease and heart disease

Toothbrushing is the best solution

How to brush your dog’s teeth

1.    First introduce your pet to toothpaste by applying some to your finger or a toy. Let them lick the toothpaste – they will love the taste. Do this for 3-5 days

2.    Next step is to place your finger with the applied toothpaste into your pet’s mouth and gently massage the teeth and gums. Repeat this until your pet is comfortable with finger brushing, gradually increasing the areas you are massaging.

3.    Try as above using a finger brush (thimble shaped, soft rubber, available to buy in the surgery). It can take 2-3 weeks to master this.

4.    At this stage you should be ready to introduce a toothbrush. Wet the toothbrush with a small amount of water and push the toothpaste well into the bristles. Start with just a few teeth, gradually increasing the number as your pet gets used to it.

5.    Lift the dog’s lips to clean the molars and premolars, but you do not need to hold his mouth open. Use an upward and downward motion to gently clean the teeth, paying attention to where the teeth and gums meet.  Start with the back teeth, gradually making your way to the front.  When you have mastered this technique it should become part of your daily routine, along with thteethcleaning.jpg (5745 bytes)e feeds, walks and cuddles!

If you have any concerns about this, speak to one of our nurses and she should be able to give you a demonstation of the technique.



Signs of dental disease

* Bad breath
* Drooling
* Pain when eating
* Eating less
* Weight loss
* Not grooming as much (cats)
* Seeming quiet and withdrawn

Dental treatment

If you notice any of the above signs in your pet, they may need dental treatment. You can arrange a free nurse appointment to assess the problem. Once tartar has started to build up, scaling under general anaesthetic is needed to remove it. Often teeth need to be removed - for example if there is severe gum disease or if the tooth is damaged.

Animals' mouths heal very quickly and they are usually eating better than before within 2 or 3 days of treatment, even if they have no teeth left! This is because they are no longer in pain.

If you can brush your pet’s teeth every day you may be able to preserve the remaining teeth. If brushing is not possible, teeth will continue to deteriorate and more dental treatment is likely to be needed, often every year or so.

Prevention is better than cure - and considerably cheaper for you and less painful for your cat or dog!

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Micro chipping



Most pet owners would never expect to lose their pet, but it is a sad fact that 1000s of pets are lost each year and not returned to their owners because they have no form of identification.

Micro chipping provides a form of identification that your pet carries for life. A microchip is implanted under the skin, between the shoulder blades and, when scanned by a microchip scanner, a number, unique to your pet, is displayed. The number is registered with PetLog, together with details of your address and telephone numbers and any regular medication that your pet may require.

If your pet goes missing, the microchip can be “read” at most Police Stations, Veterinary Practices, by Dog Wardens and all major re-homing charities. Your details will be found through the PetLog database which is open and accessible 24 hours a day, 365 days of the year. You will then be contacted direct.

www.petlog.org.uk


Pet Insurance


 

  • Why Insure? Veterinary medicine has, in recent years, become increasingly sophisticated. We are able to diagnose and treat many conditions that a few years ago would have remained undetected with, often, fatal consequences especially in the older pet. The down side of these advances is cost. It is not unheard of for treatment of a case to exceed £1,000.
  • Costs of Veterinary Treatment. Whilst we try to keep treatment costs to a reasonable level, below are some real life cases and their cost of treatment here at Churnet Valley:
  • Bloated & twisted stomach in a German Shepherd Dog - £404.91
  • Cut to the foreleg of a 5 month old puppy - £95.31
  • Fractured humerus and emergency treatment in a cat £392.98
  • Diagnosis and 7 months treatment of canine diabetes £713.94
  • Exudtive pleurisy in a cat £480.95
  • Stabilization of a ruptured cruciate ligament in a St. Bernard £1650.21


One of the most distressing situations we all too frequently find ourselves in, is where a pet’s problem is curable, but the owner (because of other financial commitments/difficulties) finds the cost is too high and the pet has to be put to sleep. A less grave situation is when the owner has to opt for a treatment which is less than the best treatment available for the pet, owing to money restraints. That’s where pet insurance comes in: Veterinary Fee Cover can help you avoid such situations. Occasionally, it will be necessary to refer difficult or complicated cases to veterinary surgeons specialising in a certain area such as ophthalmology or orthopaedics: this usually involves significant expense. An initial consultation with a referral vet can cost approximately £75; any medication is an extra cost. Insurance should cover this too.

  • When choosing an insurance company, there are a few things you should look out for, but please try to remember that you get what you pay for:
    • Check that there is no limit on how long you can claim for each illness, as chronic conditions can go on for life, not just 12 months. However, it is quite common to keep the premiums low by terminating any benefits after 12 months. A certain supermarket pet insurance policy keeps low premiums by stating that a claim must be made within 30 days of treatment being started (claims made after 30 days may not be honoured).
    • Be careful to check that the amount of Veterinary Fee Cover is adequate, over time a single illness can cost many hundreds of pounds. Some policies marketed as lifetime policies have a maximum amount per condition, a large dog with a chronic illness could reach this maximum amount in a few years.
    • Check that your pet will still be covered in later years, when he or she may need it most, and the premium in those years will still represent good value. Remember that as your pet gets older, it is more likely to develop long-term illnesses.
    • Check that congenital and hereditary conditions are included. Many companies will load premiums following a claim and subsequently place exclusions for that condition. Other things to check are that dental treatment, behavioural therapy and alternative therapies are included in the policy.
    • If you chose to pay by direct debit, some companies will insist monthly payments are continued even after your pet has died.
    • Check what won’t be covered.
    • Vaccinations, neutering and routine treatments such as worming are usually excluded.
    • Some companies may exclude complimentary treatments including homeopathy, herbal medicine or acupuncture. Many policies exclude treatment for behavioural conditions.


N.B. All insurance companies exclude pre existing conditions.


My last pet was fine, why bother insuring? Accidents/illness can always happen, and veterinary medicine has advanced so that there is far more that can be done for a pet these days. As with any insurance policy you may never need to make a claim, however the stark reality is that 40% of pets have an insurance claim over a 12-month period. This rises to 60% above 12 years of age. Compare this to car insurance, where most people claim about once every 6.5 years, or home insurance once every 4 years.

    Third party cover Dog owners are liable for injury, illness or death of a third party, if the dog is found to be the cause of an incident. If a claim is brought against an owner it could result in hefty legal bills in order to defend a claim or paying out compensation. Most policies will give adequate cover for third party liability.

Like the British Small Animal Veterinary Association, this practice endorses the concept of pet insurance and we thoroughly recommend it to our clients. Our only interest is to ensure that we never have to compromise the quality of veterinary care on the basis of cost. A recent survey by the market research company, Mintel, found that 90% of pet owners with pet insurance say that it is well worth the money. Check out Martin Lewis's website : www.moneysavingexpert.com on his advice. There is a pet insurance form on there which makes interesting reading

There are proposal forms for Pet Plan available in the waiting room. We recommend Pet Plan Covered for Life policies as they are comprehensive (meeting all of the criteria set out above) and the company settles claims quickly and with the minimum of fuss. If you have any questions please feel free to ask one of the practice team.

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Churnet Valley Veterinary Clinic Limited. Registered in England and Wales. Reg no: 6382252
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